| Couple Questions |
| 03-31-2008 07:12:53 |
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Posts: 22
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Hello everyone! Ive been stamped for two years now and have a few questions to ask ya. Your help is very appreciated.
When You guys do different colored bands around your stamepd concrete are you forming up seperate or doing all in one pour and coming back and staining the bands.
Second Question: I hate going back and cutting the joints in stamped concrete. How do you guys do it that grove your joints to make them look so crisp. Wont the stamping ruin it?
Thanks,
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| 03-31-2008 14:21:07 |
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sawing jnts is just part of the work,,, if you don't saw jnts timely & correctly, you'll ruin any stamp job as the conc'll decide where to crk,,, grooving's not the answer im-n-s-h-fo,,, your experience may be different.
best [the original] sawing-the-next-day's-sometimes-too-late yic-yac
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| 03-31-2008 15:18:47 |
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Posts: 27
Joined: 01-19-2007
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Doing the borders first is the neatest way, doing different colors at the same time takes more time, manpower and skills and staining afterworks takes longer since you have to wait for concrete to cure before you can stain; so either way you do it, takes pretty much the same(either time, labor, or manpower...)it is really up to the installer.
To get the nice looking control joints and avoid coming back to sawcut them, you can groove the joints and use the texturing strips (from Proline) but again it will take more labor and skills to stamp over and arround the joints (unless you use the seamless texturing mats), I suggest you to try them first on small areas like sidewalks and porches, before you use them in bigger jobs, it is not that hard to get, in a little while you'll get it and then you won't go back sawcutting(at least not on every job), go for it and you won't regret it.
Good Luck!
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| 03-31-2008 17:51:03 |
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Posts: 764
Joined: 05-20-2007
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Sun I totally disagree. Why is tooling in joints not the answer?? We tool in our joints with a 1/4" radius jointer. This way your joints are all in and you dont have to worry about coming back later to saw cut just to find a crack where there should have been a control joint.
If you like to stamp wet and sloppy then you will ruin your joints, but if you stamp at the right time to get good crisp texture then its fine. If they get smashed up a little in areas just run a touch up chissel in it to open it right back up. Do this while you are out on your stamps.
If you arent good at laying out your joints for the stamp pattern you are using, then stay with saw cutting the next day.
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| 03-31-2008 18:01:27 |
Member
Posts: 16
Joined: 04-27-2007
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Thanks for posting this topic!!
I usually use integral color. I've been threatening to go to color hardener so I can put borders with different colors though. I'm going to be doing a couple of practice sidewalks where I can experiment with color hardener. When doing the borders, should I use a piece of masonite or something to keep the color hardener from "leaking" to the other color hardener.
I know everyone does it different and I'm not trying to steal your trade secrets, but if you would like to share I'm all ears!!!
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| 03-31-2008 18:36:01 |
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Posts: 196
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hey John, you've grown a shadow....
A tooled joint normally wont get you the 1/4 depth of slab, (as it should be).
Saw cutting a slab will leave less profile to see and can be cut to the proper depth. the problem with cutting the joints is timing. Early entry cuts are the best way to go, smaller profile but you risk scratching the surface.
Nothing more appealing than a crack control joint running right through a stamped pattern. It just screams.....
gene
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| 04-01-2008 18:22:34 |
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Posts: 74
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Yah.... What Sun & Gene said
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| 04-02-2008 04:02:39 |
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Posts: 1160
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guess 'cause of exp in hgwy ' green ' sawing,,, its not unusual to see random micro-cracking, invisible when sawing control jnts, to appear after job's completed,,, aci rec's t/4 for jnt depth - if you can get that w/groovers, fine,,, just don't care for the final look which's personal preference,,, sawing the next day's always been ' iffy ' to me,,, we use ' green conc ' or asphalt blades w/undercut protection segments on very low h/p saws.
best [the original] early-sawing's-still-the-best-to-me yic-yac
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| 04-15-2008 16:28:34 |
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Posts: 18
Joined: 02-13-2007
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WE FORM AND POUR OUR BOARDERS FIRST ON BIG JOBS ON SMALLER ONES WE USE COLOR HARDENER ON THE BOARDERS BUT WE STILL USE INTEGRAL COLOR ON THE POUR.WE CUT IN OUR BOARDERS AND SPRINKLE COLOR HARDENER USUALLY JUST HOLDING A TROWEL LONG WAYS TO KEEP IT FROM GETTING OUT ON THE PAD.ON BOARDERS YOU CAN SPRINKLE INSTEAD OF THROW.
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| 04-20-2008 10:44:46 |
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Posts: 1
Joined: 03-31-2008
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Is color hardener ok to use in a freeze thaw climate? I always form/pour boarders first and saw cut first thing next morning, 1" no less.
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