| BLEED THROUGH ON CRACK REPAIR |
| 04-30-2008 10:24:06 |
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: 01-29-2008
|
I've been using Concrete Coatings Inc's CR-Fast crack repair with sand broadcast for crack repair and after a quick skim coat over the repair and then a final skim coat over the entire area i'm getting bleed through. Sometimes the bleed through is the next day, some times it is weeks and months later.
Any thoughts??
|
|
|
| 04-30-2008 12:06:35 |
Member
Posts: 823
Joined: --
|
some of the crack repair stuff is purple, some of it clear. make sure you are using the right stuff.
most of time though, even if you use the purple stuff, it won't reflect through if the overlay is 3/16" or more.
but if it is, ur you're using a micro topping at less than 3/16", use some white epoxy to prime over the repairs and then saturate it with white silica sand, before doing the overlay.
|
|
|
| 05-01-2008 18:54:32 |
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: 01-29-2008
|
White Epoxy? Not sure what you mean.
After the skim coats, i'll put on a spray down overlay of acrylic modified grout and then two coats of sealer. Things looks great for a short time, a few days or weeks, but then a yellowish/orangish tint starts bleeding through right where the crack repair is.
|
|
|
| 05-01-2008 23:05:33 |
Member
Posts: 823
Joined: --
|
white epoxy is white epoxy. you can get it from any paint store.
the concept is the same as priming done by painters. you spot prime over the cracks after you're done repairing them.
the pigment in the epoxy obscures the color of the crack repair from reflecting through. and the epoxy resin blocks any chemical coloring from leaching or bleeding through to the surface of the overlay.
there's really nothing else you can do. but this is not a problem that is common or endemic with overlay applications. so i would say you're either not putting your overlay down thick enough or you're just using a really cheap crack repair product that's not fully curing. with cheap products and systems, the crack repair material may not mix thoroughly and fully cure.
|
|
|
| 05-02-2008 15:19:13 |
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: 01-29-2008
|
Maybe the product is cheap. What brand would you recommend? Presently i'm using the following product.
http://www.concretecoatingsinc.com/Technical/CR-Fast%20Data%20Sheet.pdf
Any thoughts??
|
|
|
| 05-02-2008 16:44:38 |
Member
Posts: 823
Joined: --
|
i used this company's crack repair with success recently on a big overlay project: http://www.atc.ws/
this one is better, top of the line, but it's considerably more expensive: http://www.concretemender.com/
i would judge which one to use based on the profile of the project. high profile, lots of visibility, then get the owner to pay extra for concrete mender.
if it's a more functional project like a garage maybe go with the other one, or at least use a thicker overlay based.
|
|
|
| 05-03-2008 10:33:30 |
Member
Posts: 1
Joined: 05-03-2008
|
Mind if I piggyback on your question with my own related problem?
I'm considering doing an overlay on top of some old 12" ceramic glazed tile that resembles saltillo but is not. I've take off most of the glaze with a floor buffer and chemicals. The texture of the tile and 1/2"- 3/4" grout lines are possibly going to bleed through or crack the overlay that I apply.
I intend to either rough-up the tile with a sander until it has a suitable profile to bond with the trowel-on overlay product (Scofield Texture Top) or use an epoxy primer and silica to cover the tile before the overlay.
Scofields Epoxy Primer is the product I was going to use but it is about $200 for 160 square feet of coverage at 10 mil which may not be thick enough to hide the tile and grout lines which are as deep as 1/16th of an inch.
Primer PDF and specs
http://sales.scofield.com:8691/Documents/EpoxyPrimerTD7-05.pdf
The area is 600 square feet which would put the amount of expoxy needed at $800 to $1000 before I purchase the 600 lbs of silica needed to cover the epoxy. I'd rather not pull up the tile as it is messy and the front door and sidelights are built on top of the tile and will require refitting.
I noticed you guys discussing an epoxy primer for cracks in concrete. Is there a less expensive (than the Scofield's) but durable epoxy product that I could use to cover the tile?
Any experiences with troweling on the texture top overlay directly on the roughed-up tile? My gut tells me that's not the best bet but I'd like to hear from a pro or experienced weekend warrior.
thanks,
over my head in Austin
|
|
|
| 05-19-2008 13:00:00 |
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: 05-19-2008
|
I repair concrete everyday and than coat it. I have no real experience with overlays though. I use my mender ( Advacoat Patch Repair ) and mix it with an 80 grit silica sand. After 15 mins i diamond grind it smooth, works perfect everytime. Now this product will not flex, which is good, but not in control joints.
For control joints, i use Advacoat Joint Filler, two component flexible polyurea quick cure. It has 75% flex capacity, and can be coated, so an overlay would work fine too.
I would paste some pictures of some crazy repairs i have done, but it wont let me!
|
|
|
| 08-03-2008 07:20:02 |
Member
Posts: 16
Joined: --
|
Would Crackbond cg3 be a good product if I am using a angle grinder (quarter inch blade) to widen a crack before applying a overlay.
|
|
|
| 08-03-2008 19:15:38 |
Member
Posts: 1160
Joined: --
|
we use a .500 x 4" v-blade on a 4" grinder w/epoxy that's designed for ' v ' adhesion,,, i don't think a $25 tuckpoint blade's worth the trouble when the v's are only $60,,, most epoxies aren't designed for that width w/o being ' filled ' but that's just my exp.
best [the original] can-you-say-billy-means yic-yac
|
|
|
| 08-03-2008 19:16:14 |
Member
Posts: 1160
Joined: --
|
uh-oh
|
|
|
| 08-03-2008 19:16:22 |
Member
Posts: 1160
Joined: --
|
uh-oh redux
|
|
|
| 08-03-2008 19:17:09 |
Member
Posts: 1160
Joined: --
|
sorry for the blast,,, at the shore w/new laptop & wireless troubles.
|
|
|